Proximity Denims x HARDENCO x HH 5-Pocket Jean -- DOUBLE KNEE Broken Twill (DK)
Regular price $423.00
Unit price per
After a full year of developing and field testing iterations of this exclusive product with our friends at HARDENCO, we truly believe that this product can only speak for itself. This double knee version of our 003 jean is built using one of the original HARDENCO patterns first developed over 9 years ago. The 003 fit It is a high rise, full leg vintage cut with the slightest taper toward the bottom, very similar to the style of iconic jeans commonly worn in the 40s and 50s. Add a double knee to it with a 3" opening to slide a knee pad in, and you get the most bulletproof version we've ever concocted. In field testing this particular model, we noticed that removing traditional metal rivets at the angular cuts of the double knee on the thigh and replacing them with bartacks resulted in less damage to screens when they get tossed in your lap while sitting, they reduce the scraping of a surface being leaned on, and they create one less future problem for repair, all while maintaining the same integrity and durability features. The reduction of the aperture on the bottom of the double knee, where the two panels open, traditionally to allow a kneepad to be inserted into, allows for them to not angle at a corner and want to fall out. Nice and snug with the 3" opening. Then, we decided to put dark tan in the filling of the broken twill weave, to deepen the color of the cloth to a dark, buttery, inky shade. This will hide dirt, stay dark longer, and with such a tightly woven denim, it is resistant to picking, unlike heavier, coarser weaves or duck cloth, traditionally found in double knee work pants.
This pattern is based entirely on the nature of unsanforized denim, which loses a significant, albeit scientifically accurate and predictable percentage of its volume when properly shrunk up into its correct fit. Never have there been more differences in body shapes of the same waist size, so we look to using unsanforized, loomstate cloth to allow the cloth to auto-tailor to fit the wearer's body, rather than solely seeking a pattern to create the "fit." That being said, just like the old school days, we encourage the wearer to hop in the hot bath tub or shower with them on for 30 minutes, and then let them hang dry with no tension on the waistband. We have done our homework, boil-testing every pair to confirm the math of the fabric shrinkage, so that it can be tried and true, worthy of your trust. These jeans are a limited offering at Hudson's Hill, produced exclusively for us by HARDENCO and always only made with famous Proximity Denim, woven right here in Jeansboro by Evan and his team at the old White Oak plant. We may not make this same pant again, in this fabric, so if you're interested at this point in reading this description, click buy. You won't regret it.
For the double knee model, we chose a unique series of thread options with the most classic copper hardware, so the buttons and rivets will age and oxidize over time, beautifully. The thread choice is a combination of Rockweed, Moss Green, and Green Tan. Some of the thread is from America & Efird, and some is also from the now defunct New Bedford. Hidden sombrero rivets in the back pockets. Fully lined back pockets and front pockets, both using a heavy duty toolproof sail cloth with the same shrinkage as the denim, so you don't have to worry about the differential when they get shrunk on body, which could have created a puckering effect. Trust me, we thought this through. A lot.
This pair is as American as all of the details can get, with nods to the western jeans of yonder year, along with our very own combination of timeless hallmarks. And the best part about a broken twill? No leg twist. Ever.
Details:
-12.20 oz per square yard unsanforized 3/1 broken twill denim (13.45oz shrunk) woven with entirely USA-made materials on Draper X-3 shuttle looms by Proximity Manufacturing Company in Greensboro, NC. This denim is our iteration of a popular style regularly produced in the 1960s using a dark tan jute filling yarn to change the cast of the warp face of the cloth. Broken twill denim was originally conceived and first produced in 1964 to control and eliminiate the "leg twist" or "tube torque" that otherwise occurs in right or left-hand constructed into jeans.
-Solid Copper YKK USA donut buttons
-Solid Copper YKK USA washer & hidden back pocket sombrero rivets w/ extra low profile
-A&E Perma-Core thread and New Bedford glazed cotton thread in heavy Tex weights for ultra durable seams and classic color pallet
-Double chainstitched outseam, like bygone era brands, for increased durability
-Doubled work knee with knee pad entry aperture at bottom center
-Front pockets and back pocket liner made from ultra durable tool-proof deadstock Cone Denim White Oak 12oz natural canvas, which has the same shrinkage as the denim, so that back pockets and pocket bags remain flat and unskewed through the shrink into fit process.
-Butterfly coverstitched beltloops
-5-button fly closure
-All jeans come standard with a ~36-37.5" inseam intentionally, and we recommend they be hemmed to suit your proper, desired length when shrunk according to the instructions below.
- Sized to fit the tagged size when shrunk properly. Sizes 30-34 are graded 2" larger in the waist and 3.5" longer in the inseam, while 36-42 are 2.5" larger in the waist and 3.75" longer in the inseam. This is the CORRECT size, we promise you can take our word for it.
NOTE: THIS PRODUCT IS UNSANFORIZED AND WILL SHRINK!
-To shrink jeans to your proper size, you will need only to put them on, button them up, then get into a hot bathtub or shower for 30 minutes, and then let them hang dry, and they will shrink to your approximate fit. Hot tubs, heated pools, the ocean on a hot day in Summer also work. We both prefer and recommend the hot bathtub option.
-Free repairs for life, honored at both HARDENCO (New Hartford, CT) and Hudson's Hill (Greensboro, NC)
Sizing Chart: All measurements are in inches. Measurements are taken from raw, unshrunk pairs. Where two number values are listed, the first is taken flat, while the parenthesized number is the doubled circumferential measurement.
| 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | |
| Waist: | 16 (32) | 16.5 (33) | 17 (34) | 18 (36) | 18.25 (36.5) | 19.25 (38.5) | 20.5 (41) | 21.5 (43) | 22.5 (45) |
| Front Rise: | 12 | 12.25 | 12.5 | 12.625 | 12.75 | 13.25 | 13.5 | 14 | 14.5 |
| Back Rise: | 16.5 | 16.75 | 17.25 | 17.5 | 17.875 | 18 | 19 | 19.25 | 20 |
| Hip: | 20.5 (41) | 21.25 (42.5) | 21.5 (43) | 21.5 (43) | 22.5 (45) | 23.5 (47) | 24.5 (49) | 25 (50) | 26 (52) |
| Thigh: | 12.5 (25) | 12.75 (25.5) | 13 (26) | 13.375 (26.75) | 13.75 (27.5) | 14 (28) | 14.5 (29) | 15 (30) | 15.5 (31) |
| Knee: | 9.75 (19.5) | 10 (20) | 10 (20) | 10.25 (20.5) | 10.5 (21) | 11 (22) | 11 (22) | 11 (22) | 11 (22) |
| Leg Opening: | 9.25 (18.5) | 9.25 (18.5) | 9.5 (19) | 9.5 (19) | 9.75 (19.5) | 9.75 (19.5) | 10 (20) | 10.25 (20.5) | 10.5 (21) |
| Inseam: | 40 | 40 | 40 | 40 | 40 | 41 | 41 | 41 | 41 |